I peeled off that blue pad on the print bed - underneath it is a pane of glass. Printing directly on the glass with glue stick assistance and I have had wonderful results since.
Okay, this is the umpteenth time I've heard this advice, but here's my rebuttal: TURN IT AROUND. There's no sticker on the underside.
Sorry but I needed to get that off my chest.
Rebuttal to the rebuttal: if I’m never going to use the sticker side again, why wouldn’t I want smooth flat glass on both sides of a surface I’m doing my best to constantly keep level?
It’s okay to get things off your chest. No worries. Especially about something as inconsequential as this.
Keep them warm and draft free. Pla+ works great. No heated bed kinda sucks so warping can be an issue, but block air movement around it and prints great
Both of mine excel with PLA and TPU.
I swapped one to a hardened steel nozzle that runs glow in the dark PLA most of the time (I just can’t get enough of it) and my other almost exclusively runs TPU. Both have given me exceptional print quality.
Like another commenter said, the build plate is glass. Instead of peeling the build tak off, I just flipped the glass plate over. And instead of using glue stick I use 6” wide rolls of painters tape from uline .
Uline tape is not like regular shitty painters tape. The texture is much smoother, it is made of a different material than any other masking tape I have found, and the adhesive is much much stronger. It is honestly the best build surface I have used. I don’t have any of the issues that are common with unheated beds.
Print a spool holder to allow 1KG spools. For me, that's 0.01€ per meter cheaper than using 0.6kg spools. I tuned this one to be a bit shorter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1967410
I also fixed a lot of warping issues by closing the sides. I bought some acrylic side panels and used these to hold them in place: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3640166
Use glue stick to prevent parts from moving while printing. Especially because this printer doesn't have a heated bed. The parts come out easily due to warping if glue stick isn't used.
Some recommend putting the glass side up. In my usage that made things worse. But you can of course give it a try.
One more tip is to use Cura slicer. A great plugin has been made for it to support the Finder: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/Ronoaldo/FlashforgeFinderIntegration You will also need this for it: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/Ronoaldo/GXWriter
With these modifications I was able to print stuff that I couldn't before due to warping. Overall I like the Finder. Especially after these modifications. It's just that it's missing a heat bed and would be cheaper to upgrade the printer than to mod a heated bed for it. The print bed is also bit small for me. I'm looking at Ender printers at the moment.
I’m going to pair these with some palette 3 pros, so no need for filament holders.
I just built a Maslow cnc router with laser so can laser cut the exact size acrylic.
I was thinking if they were junk I’d end up ripping the printer out and just using the enclosures with some prusas inside.
Flip the build surface and print on the glass plate side. Glue stick or blue painters tape works well. Never tried anything besides PLA but that prints fine. Leveling can be a bit fiddly but once done, it seems to hold well. There are a few nice accessories on T-Verse that help with filament feed you might want to look at. I bought a Finder for my wife back 2018 and it's been her daily driver ever since. I can't even remember the last time that silly little printer threw a bad print and she prints a lot of stuff.
Nice haul. Get some metal rods for your filament and build a rack behind the setup. The shitty cartridges are expensive and annoying to work with.
You may also want to think about how you're powering these at once. You may be pushing the limits of your circuit.
400w at 6a should be ok, but only going to run 3 to start with. These don’t have heated beds so are pretty low power.
My next big purchase is going to be a solar roof so electricity shouldn’t be a big issue.
3 work printing test box. If the other ones, 1 missing extruder, 1 has 2 broken end stops, and on the last one 1 the auto leveler is broke, so should be able to get 1 or 2 more going. Not bad for $40 each!
Peel that blue stuff off the bed, it's horrible. For metal or wood prints 0.6 nozzle. Heatcreep with PLA can be a problem if you don't use a full metal hotend like this. https://www.3djake.fi/micro-swiss/all-metal-hotend-setti-flashforge-finder-guider-2lle?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqKuKBhCxARIsACf4XuGzbAQ3kPqZqa1q0GlZbdEzL8Qw2XtdwbHdNA\_6qACXerUdS3zkeNQaAo6YEALw\_wcB
I know you are being facetious, but as everyone can see (by the water mark and your post history) your input is what should be binned. https://i.imgur.com/QnpV6P8.jpg
Ah yes, right on queue, feigning innocence!
You and your comments are not productive, nor have you added anything to the conversation.
In the future just shut up, all you have done is make yourself look stupid.
I haven’t tried flipping the plate yet. I use glue stick on the paper, and print most things with a raft.
Found printing at lower temps than the defaults helps lots. I used the fast settings, with Finder PLA lower temp to 180C, retraction to 4mm retraction speed to 100mm/S (from memory, much faster the default anyway).
In flashprint I have found the tree supports often fail more compared with linear. If they are standing on their own can fall over/ get knocked over more easily.
Only other thing to watch for is running out of filament. I use a pair of callipers and just measure how much got printed and slice that off. Print the rest and glue. Depends what your printing of course and whether your going to smooth and paint.
Hi I have purchased my first 3D printer last week, a Finder2.0. I can not seem to be able to get a smooth print on the base (which is the actual top of my model). I wan it to be as smooth as the wall, instead I can see lines. Any advice?
I have one of these printers but I cant get it to connect to flashprint. Its so frustrating because this was supposed to be easy to use. I have tried the usb cable and wifi and flashforge can see the printer but won't connect. I have tried other slicers but how do I print?
I haven’t got mine wireless yet, printing from usb. Going to try octoprint and if that doesn’t work I’m going to retrofit to a duet boards and prusa mini heat beds.
I just went to the drug store and bought a cheap usb flash drive for $16 and I’m using that and it works. I still with I could get the usb cable or wireless to work but at least I can print now
I covered the build plate with scotch masking tape and make sure the temp was hot enough for the filament to stick. I also have played around with the z offset in the slicer because I realised after levelling the plate was too low. I have had not alot of warping doing this and it's been real good
I peeled off that blue pad on the print bed - underneath it is a pane of glass. Printing directly on the glass with glue stick assistance and I have had wonderful results since.
Okay, this is the umpteenth time I've heard this advice, but here's my rebuttal: TURN IT AROUND. There's no sticker on the underside. Sorry but I needed to get that off my chest.
Rebuttal to the rebuttal: if I’m never going to use the sticker side again, why wouldn’t I want smooth flat glass on both sides of a surface I’m doing my best to constantly keep level? It’s okay to get things off your chest. No worries. Especially about something as inconsequential as this.
Wow good info did not know that, have some pretty bad warping&adhesion issues
+1 I did not know that. Nice one
This is how you make the flashforge great again.
You can just flip the bed.
Keep them warm and draft free. Pla+ works great. No heated bed kinda sucks so warping can be an issue, but block air movement around it and prints great
I second this. I put mine in a cupboard. I also use green masking tape on the bed with purple glue. I had a lot of warping prior to doing this.
I use blue tape on a magnetic sheet. Of there is warping it doesn't release from the base, it just curves it up on the edges and finishes like normal
Any tips or tricks? Better for pla or tpu? Got started with ender 3’s but moved on to a pair of Artemis 300’s.
Both of mine excel with PLA and TPU. I swapped one to a hardened steel nozzle that runs glow in the dark PLA most of the time (I just can’t get enough of it) and my other almost exclusively runs TPU. Both have given me exceptional print quality. Like another commenter said, the build plate is glass. Instead of peeling the build tak off, I just flipped the glass plate over. And instead of using glue stick I use 6” wide rolls of painters tape from uline . Uline tape is not like regular shitty painters tape. The texture is much smoother, it is made of a different material than any other masking tape I have found, and the adhesive is much much stronger. It is honestly the best build surface I have used. I don’t have any of the issues that are common with unheated beds.
Print a spool holder to allow 1KG spools. For me, that's 0.01€ per meter cheaper than using 0.6kg spools. I tuned this one to be a bit shorter: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1967410 I also fixed a lot of warping issues by closing the sides. I bought some acrylic side panels and used these to hold them in place: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3640166 Use glue stick to prevent parts from moving while printing. Especially because this printer doesn't have a heated bed. The parts come out easily due to warping if glue stick isn't used. Some recommend putting the glass side up. In my usage that made things worse. But you can of course give it a try. One more tip is to use Cura slicer. A great plugin has been made for it to support the Finder: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/Ronoaldo/FlashforgeFinderIntegration You will also need this for it: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/plugins/Ronoaldo/GXWriter With these modifications I was able to print stuff that I couldn't before due to warping. Overall I like the Finder. Especially after these modifications. It's just that it's missing a heat bed and would be cheaper to upgrade the printer than to mod a heated bed for it. The print bed is also bit small for me. I'm looking at Ender printers at the moment.
I’m going to pair these with some palette 3 pros, so no need for filament holders. I just built a Maslow cnc router with laser so can laser cut the exact size acrylic. I was thinking if they were junk I’d end up ripping the printer out and just using the enclosures with some prusas inside.
Flip the build surface and print on the glass plate side. Glue stick or blue painters tape works well. Never tried anything besides PLA but that prints fine. Leveling can be a bit fiddly but once done, it seems to hold well. There are a few nice accessories on T-Verse that help with filament feed you might want to look at. I bought a Finder for my wife back 2018 and it's been her daily driver ever since. I can't even remember the last time that silly little printer threw a bad print and she prints a lot of stuff.
Nice haul. Get some metal rods for your filament and build a rack behind the setup. The shitty cartridges are expensive and annoying to work with. You may also want to think about how you're powering these at once. You may be pushing the limits of your circuit.
400w at 6a should be ok, but only going to run 3 to start with. These don’t have heated beds so are pretty low power. My next big purchase is going to be a solar roof so electricity shouldn’t be a big issue.
3 work printing test box. If the other ones, 1 missing extruder, 1 has 2 broken end stops, and on the last one 1 the auto leveler is broke, so should be able to get 1 or 2 more going. Not bad for $40 each!
Peel that blue stuff off the bed, it's horrible. For metal or wood prints 0.6 nozzle. Heatcreep with PLA can be a problem if you don't use a full metal hotend like this. https://www.3djake.fi/micro-swiss/all-metal-hotend-setti-flashforge-finder-guider-2lle?gclid=Cj0KCQjwqKuKBhCxARIsACf4XuGzbAQ3kPqZqa1q0GlZbdEzL8Qw2XtdwbHdNA\_6qACXerUdS3zkeNQaAo6YEALw\_wcB
Going to be my first upgrade
bin them
https://i.imgur.com/YUiiF9c.jpg
wheres that from?
I know you are being facetious, but as everyone can see (by the water mark and your post history) your input is what should be binned. https://i.imgur.com/QnpV6P8.jpg
don't know what your talking about... my input is great
Well, submit some evidence to the contrary or shut the fuck up.
aggressive much? LOL
Ah yes, right on queue, feigning innocence! You and your comments are not productive, nor have you added anything to the conversation. In the future just shut up, all you have done is make yourself look stupid.
I haven’t tried flipping the plate yet. I use glue stick on the paper, and print most things with a raft. Found printing at lower temps than the defaults helps lots. I used the fast settings, with Finder PLA lower temp to 180C, retraction to 4mm retraction speed to 100mm/S (from memory, much faster the default anyway). In flashprint I have found the tree supports often fail more compared with linear. If they are standing on their own can fall over/ get knocked over more easily. Only other thing to watch for is running out of filament. I use a pair of callipers and just measure how much got printed and slice that off. Print the rest and glue. Depends what your printing of course and whether your going to smooth and paint.
Hi I have purchased my first 3D printer last week, a Finder2.0. I can not seem to be able to get a smooth print on the base (which is the actual top of my model). I wan it to be as smooth as the wall, instead I can see lines. Any advice?
Sanding is the only 100% way.
I have one of these printers but I cant get it to connect to flashprint. Its so frustrating because this was supposed to be easy to use. I have tried the usb cable and wifi and flashforge can see the printer but won't connect. I have tried other slicers but how do I print?
I haven’t got mine wireless yet, printing from usb. Going to try octoprint and if that doesn’t work I’m going to retrofit to a duet boards and prusa mini heat beds.
I just went to the drug store and bought a cheap usb flash drive for $16 and I’m using that and it works. I still with I could get the usb cable or wireless to work but at least I can print now
I covered the build plate with scotch masking tape and make sure the temp was hot enough for the filament to stick. I also have played around with the z offset in the slicer because I realised after levelling the plate was too low. I have had not alot of warping doing this and it's been real good